Monday 11 June 2012

Seward to Homer


My first windy pack up of camp this morning, so that was quite interesting, to say the least – You take out the tent pegs and the whole tent blows down through the camp site !!!  You have to find a whole new way of doing it, and folding everything up when all it wants to do is blow up like a parachute in the wind !!  However, all successfully accomplished, and I was on the road by a surprisingly early 7.45 am.


After about 15 miles I came to the major roadworks they were doing, and just before arriving there a green SUV passed me and the lady driver waved vigorously at, as many do, so I waved back.  Shortly afterwards I pull up at the stop sin for the road works, right behind the green SUV, from which the lady suddeny emerges and runs back towards me.  “Are you REALLY from Surfers Paradise?” she asks. “Yes I am”, I reply.  “Oh, that’s amazing she says – My best friend lives there and I have been there too !!!!  Welcome to Alaska !   Here, if you are ever going to be in Fairbanks, and need anything, here is my pone number.  And you will need these (she hands me two packets of hand warmers) to keep you warm here, and these (handing me some Vitamin C powder sachets) to keep you from catching a cold.   Have a nice time in Alaska”.  At which time the stop sign changes to go, and she gives me a big “welcome to Alaska hug” right there in the middle of the roadworks with the bemused people in the vehicles behind watching on at all of this with a smile on their faces !    And I am left thinking “How good is this place ?  You can even get a hug at 8.30 am from a stranger right there at the roadworks in the middle of nowhere !!!”

I like Alaska !!   Liz, you made my day !! I smiled for the next hour !!!!

The drive to Homer is……..different. After all this time of mountains and scenery, almost the whole drive is forest.  I won’t say it is boring, because after so many mountains, it isn’t.  Initially, there are mountains as you go through the Moose Pass, but after the Homer turn off it is all forest and fly  river fishing,  Lodges and camps signposted off the road down into the forest one after the other.  Even one called Cooper Landing !! And from then on it is mostly flat forest, and you can’t really see any scenery  for the trees.  It is like this for 50 miles as you cross the centre of the Kenai Peninsula until you get to Soldotna. This is a real surprise as Soldotna is a surprisingly large town that you suddenly come across after all the forests.  After Soldotna you turn south west, following the coast line but seveal miles inland, so you still don’t see very much apart from trees.  Then around Ninilchik, you suddenly come out on the coast, and can see Mt Redoubt and Mt Iliamna Volcanoes over on the western side of the Cook Inlet. These are 10,000 ft tall active volcanoes, and form an impressive sight across the bay – From there west is an enormous wilderness area which stretches several hundred miles all the way to the Yukon Delta region, where the mighty Yukon river eventually flows out to the sea.

After that, you go back into the forests again, until Anchor Point, just before Homer,  where you come over the brow of a hill and suddenly, in front of you, is this magnificent panorama of the back of the Kenai Mountains that, when I left Seward this morning, I was actually on the other side of !  I had essentially come all the way around them, and glaciers that I could now see from Homer were fed out of the same massive Harding Ice Field that feeds the Exit Glacier, near Seward, where I had been walking just yesterday, but here coming out of the opposite end of the ice field.   But between Homer and the mountains is the Kachemak Bay.

At the bottom of the main town of Homer is The Spit – This is a 4 ½ mile long natural spit of land out into Kachemak Bay, left over from one of the periods when this whole area was glaciated.  It is just the two lane road down the middle, with about 50 yards on either side providing enough space for buildings (all built on stilts) and lots of camping and boat marina facilities to house what is called the biggest Halibut fishing centre in the world !!  Everything here is fishing – Tours, competitions, cleaning, freezing, shipping, and of course restaurants to eat them !!  You come to Homer to fish.  And the backdrop to all this fishing  are the magnificent Kenai Mountains on the other side of the bay.  Camping is mainly how you stay on the Spit – All the hotels are back up in the main part of town.  And the camping is beside the beach, on the beach, at whatever level you want from basically free with no facilities right up to the full hook up and service for the many motorhomes that are here.  My camp site is right overlooking the water, beside a rocky beach, and although it is fairly squashed in (I would NOT like to be here in late June / early July when the hoards arrive – Apparently the 4th July weekend here is an absolute nightmare !!

Anyway, I am here now, and it is good – About half full.  Once I had arrived and pitched my tent, I went off exploring the area to find out what I could do.  Someone along the way had told me to go out for a trip on a vessel called the Danny J, so I o this – it is just a Kachemak Bay ferry that goes over past some bird and wildlife populated islands to Halibut Cove, an island which is primarily a residence for artists, but which also has a very nice restaurant called The Saltry.  Anyway, booked that for noon tomorrow.  I looked at flights over to Kodiak to see bears, but these are incredibly expensive, and as I have already seen quite a lot of bears with no one around except me, I felt they were not really necessary at this time, even though they do look superb.  Eventually I hooked up with some Motorhomers Woody, Wendy, Ray and Wilma who I have met several times along the way since Valdez, and they are going out on an all day fishing charter on Sunday and invited me along !   So on Sunday I am going fishing for Halibut !!  Should be interesting !

For now, I am set up on the beach.  The wind is incredibly cold, but it is fine.  And Homer Spit is a great place to be (as long as you have your thermals on !!!