Monday 11 June 2012

Homer Day 1


When the wind blows in Homer, it blows cold !!  Woke up this morning at about 5.30 am after having had a late night last night trying to get the blog and photos uploaded. I am not overly impressed by the internet in Alaska, but then I guess it wouldn’t be any better in Coober Pedy or Cunnamulla camp sites !! But it wasn’t raining – And I am learning that in Alaska, that means it is a nice day !! So after a while thinking about the contortions I needed to go through to get me dressed to go out into the outside world, I put my thoughts into action, got dressed, and went for a walk down the spit. Lots of the bat charters go out at about 6 or 6.30 am, so the place is a hive of activity early.  While on my walk I went to check out the dock from which my ferry would be leaving later, and also went further down the spit where I had been told that sea otters often congregate in the mornings – But apparently not this morning !!  Not much wildlife out there at all this morning, which was a bit disappointing. However, I had the ferry trip to look forward to, so went back to camp, and by the time I had showered and had my breakfast, and chatted to several people who came wandering by and wanted to talk, it was time to head for the dock.



The Danny J is an old style boat that holds about 30 people, and only about 10 of them are able to be inside – The rest put on ponchos if required, and brave the elements !   No rain today, so it was just necessary to rug up against the wind, and we set off across Kachemak Bay towards Gull Island.

Gull Island is the nesting place for large numbers of seabirds, including Kittywake gulls, several other types of gulls, cormorants, and Murres (a bit like  Gillemot – stumpy wings like penguins) and also  puffins.   When we got out there the island was mostly covered in gulls, nesting on sheer cliff faces, while the water was largely covered in these murres which apparently only use land to lay eggs, and  otherwise spend their whole lives on the water.  Funny little birds that have to run on the water to get up enough speed for their stumpy little wings to give them enough lift !  And when they come in to land, it looks more like an accident than a landing – They just kind of splash into the water ! 

Puffins are hard to see because they actually nest in holes in the ground, and Gull Island has a tufted grass top where you can see their holes, but hard to spot the birds.  However there were several swimming around with all the murres on the water, so at east we did see some.   Interesting there was a bald eagle out there, causing chaos because everytime  it flew around, all the gulls took off, and this left their nests unprotected, and the eagle would land and eat the eggs or chicks.

As we moved on towards Halibut Cove, we saw a few sea otters lying on their backs, but they disappeared fairly quickly as we approached. The village of Halibut Cove, on Ismailof Island, was once the base for a thriving herring industry in the early 1900’s, but this collapsed in 1928.  During Prohibition a number of bootlegger’s stills were located among the trees. Now it is home to a small community of fishermen and artists, and an excellent restaurant called The Saltry. Several art galleries are on the island and you can visit these during the visit, wandering along the boardwalks to get around. They have very big tidal variations here, amongst the largest in the world, so the whole community is designed around the need to stay clear of the water at high tide !

If you want isolation for a while, there are a few properties available for rental, but I think you would really want big time ”remote” to want to come here, especially during the winter.

Everyone had a delicious meal at the Saltry Restaurant – I had halibut and it was very good.  After a wander on the trails for an hour or so to have a look at some of the amazing houses out there, it was time to once again board the Danny J for the return trip to the Homer Spit.  We got back at 5 pm and it was a very pleasant and relaxing day.

I then grabbed my camera and went off up the spit looking for eagles or any other interesting wildlife taking advantage of the fisherman filleting their catches, but tonight there weren’t any around.  So on the way back to the tent, I called into the Salty Dawg bar for a beer as someone had told me to pay a visit.  It certainly has lots of character, with low ceiling and all a bit like an old Cornish pub, except the walls are covered in one dollar bills that you sign and then stick up on the wall !  A fun place to drop in to for a beer at the end of a hard day’s fishing !

After that it was just a case of getting super and to bed as I have to be up at 6 am and  ready for another day at sea tomorrow – This time as Giles the Halibut fisherman  !  Could be an interesting day !!